halfcupofcoffee

Coffee stuff I don't want to clog my main blog with

If you pass by the UHT milk section in any northern european (probably elsewhere too, but I haven't been anywhere else recently) supermarket, you probably have noticed a significant change. In my go to one, for example, about ¾ of it are already devoted to both lactose free dairy and plant based milk alternatives. Even in the fresh milk section you will now find a (smaller) section of plant based alternatives. To me that's good news, but if you maybe have never considered plant based milk alternatives, you may wonder why that's a big deal and why so many alternatives suddenly showed up.

A bunch of different cartons of plant based milk alternatives from europe

Why use plant based alternatives

In the beginning, when plant based either meant soy, or, if you're lucky, almond, it was more about catering to vegans and to people who are lactose intolerant or have an allergy that makes them not drink milk. A lot of us are at least partially lactose intolerant and in many parts of the world it's the common case, not the exception.

All plant based alternatives have one other big advantage: They are much more environmentally friendly. To varying degrees as we will see, but if you think about it, that does make some sense: Instead of growing crops you then feed to a cow, who then turns that, partially, into milk, if you can grow the same or other crops (soy, for example is used much more for feeding cows than for making milk right now) and with water, a mill and some filters, you can turn that directly into a drink that is also can be made shelf stable very easily. When it comes to grain/milk effectiveness, using the cow is not exactly the most efficient way.

The differences in land and water usage between cow's milk and the plant based alternatives are staggering. The following chart from Our world in data shows some different factors and as you can see in every category there is a huge gap between all the alternatives and cow's milk.

But plant based milk is not milk.

True. Cow's milk is a very special substance, specifically created to support infants (in this case: Little cow infants) in their initial growth phase. It is literally a full meal.

It also has a very specific taste that can't really be replicated by using plants and a texture that is less hard but still hard to replicate.

It also is the basis of a lot of very tasty products made by fermenting the milk, like yogurt, quark, kefir, cheese, etc. etc. – This can also only be partially replicated with plant based milk – Plant based cheese substitutes for example are usually not the result of fermentation.

To me, it makes sense, thus, to divide this up into two categories: 1. The substitution of milk as part of your diet and the resulting changes in your nutrients because of that and 2. the functional substitution of milk in drinks, food etc. For this article, I'll focus on milk itself, excluding any kind of derivatives such as yogurt and cheese.

But milk is an essential food

For infants, yes. Now granted, real cow's milk does contain a lot of super useful stuff, like calcium, a lot of protein and some vitamins as well. I am not a nutrition expert, so I'm not going to say too much about this, but from what I've read so far, all of the “essential” stuff in cow's milk can either be substituted by other sources or, more likely, you'll get enough of these already if you're eating a healthy diet.

That being said, it does make sense to take a good solid look at the carton and figure out how much sugar, how much proteins are in your alternative to figure out how the milk you're consumin adds to your daily intake. If that's your thing.

The milk alternatives vary widely here. Oat milk contains very little proteins for example, to the point where companies started to add legumes such as broad beans to the mix. Soy beans are protein rich from the start, as are peas. That being said the differences are always suble and unless you drink huge quantities of these, the impact on your diet to change between different milk types is probably neglectable.

Plant based milk in my coffee simply doesn't taste as good

To me, especially given how much (or little) milk I've consumed before transitioning away from cow's milk, this is the much more interesting aspect.

For me, personally, the transition was easy, I now almost exclusively drink Oat milk (but more on the options later) and I am now just accustomed to the taste, so much, in fact, that every time I forget to order my coffee with the alternative, I am put off a little by the taste of cow's milk.

To put it plainly: Unless you have very specific issues with every single milk alternative out there, I think you should be able to find an alternative you can enjoy.

Beyond taste, there are also textural issues as well as smell and of course, the look. We are very used to the specific milky white and a more greyish tone from an oat milk might turn you off at first. Some specific products are very thin, where as others have a slight tendency to get a bit slimy. Nothing a thorough round of taste testing couldn't fix.

Of course, this blog is about coffee and I like my flat white ish drink with steamed milk foam so that gives us another thing to talk about: Under which parameters the alternatives behave in a similar way to cow's milk. This may lead to additives such as acid regulators to be deemed necessary to make a milk based alternative viable for steaming. This is especially true for oat milk and I've seen people balk at the mentioning of some of the chemicals used for that. All I can say to that is if you find an alternative that works without such an additive and you find it enjoyable: Wonderful. Of course all of these chemicals are added in quantities that are absolutely harmless for human consumption.

I've been testing out a wide variety of plant based alternatives for using as a steamed milk alternative. My Gaggia Classic is not exactly a steam monster, so these were tests under somewhat harsh conditions. In future posts I will summarise my findings, but please note that the products I was able to test are all european products, sometimes even restricted to the german market. Nevertheless I think just comparing the various archetypes of plant based “Barista” milk alternatives will give you a lot of info you can then transfer to the products available in your region.

My homemade coffee comes in three forms: Filter coffee, espresso and moka pot. I have a PID modded Gaggia Classic in my Studio and if I don't forget it in our sweden summer home, I have an Aeropress there and a Hario V60 02 to make filter coffee there. My grinder there is a DF64/G-Iota which I am very happy with.

At home, so far, I had a small V60 and two moka pots, a simple single one and a Bialetti Brikka (Which I used to love but now basically don't use anymore). As grinders go, I used to have two small handgrinders, one of them being the ubiquitous Hario Slim and one being a slightly more sturdy aluminium body grinder with no brand name to mention. And after got the DF64 for the studio, I moved the relatively ok Saeco Mac 001 espresso grinder to my home kitchen.

The two smaller hand grinders are not very consistent unfortunately. The Saeco is more consistent, but produces a lot of fines even at coarse settings.

One thing was clear, I didn't want to shell out another 400 EUR for another DF64. I don't drink a ton of coffee at home, so I am actually happy to hand grind.

A new era of hand grinders

Fortunately, the world of hand grinders for coffee has been completely uprooted by a small german producer, Commandante. The C40 was the first hand grinder in a new generation of grinders probably best described by the following properties:

  • solid metal enclosure for increased stability
  • actual ball bearings for more stability and precision in holding the drive shaft
  • bigger steel burrs, often with interesting and new burr geometries, massively increasing grind speed, but also allowing for much finer grounds to be produced, making it viable (if exhausting) to grind for espresso.

The Commandante C40 is still a very well regarded grinder, but it is also a relatively expensive grinder, starting at ~250 EUR. From what I can tell, it is worth the money given that it is built in germany with high precision and good materials.

Then, as it always happens in these modern times, knockoffs began to appear. And then the knockoffs began to get better and better. The companies, mainly Timemore, Normcore and 1zpresso, began to innovate beyond the Commandante, but also, produced good, consistent grinders at much lower price points.

And I am super late to that game. I am currently testing two grinders I specifically selected for their features and their price point.

Photo of two hand grinders, a Normcore V2 (38mm) and a 1ZPresso JX

The first I got was a Normcore V2 (38mm, steel burr). The grinder costs roughly around $100 but is unfortunately not shipped from within Europe which makes shipping a bit painful. It feels very solid, grinds extremely fast and ... had a defect. It is supposed to grind espresso but I believe there are some issues with the length of the drive shaft on my grinder, which means that I can't adjust the grind size into these very fine territories. I am now in contact with them (oddly, the only way of contacting them reliably seems an Instagram DM?!?) and they promised to send me a new drive shaft.

Apart from that, the grinder seems great and I like the fact that they have a rubber sleeve (maybe silicon?) that holds the crank and that the whole grinder actually fits into an aeropress.

Then I also got myself an 1zpresso JX. 1zpresso has a wide range of grinders and the JX is (clocking in at around $130) one of their cheaper grinders, but has a much bigger burr set (48mm) and more capacity, which is great for larger batches and cold brews, for example. The burr set seems to be a bit slower and a bit less consistent than the normcore but I need to verify this in further tests. The build quality is super solid, it fits my hand size, grinding is very fast as well and it also looks very nice.

I'll report back with some more findings soon, hopefully.

A new brewer

The last addition to my home filter coffee setup is an April brewer. I was looking for an alternative for my V60 but I was a bit afraid of the Kalita with the usual stories of stalling brews because of the small holes in the bottom – The April brewer is a very nice thing to look at, even in the plastic version I ordered. It came in a set with some paper filters which April claims are better for their brewer than the same sized Kalita 155 filters and a very nice Coffee, their Ethiopian Zewde, a natural process Krume variety.

A photo of the green plastic April brewer

The April brewer has been interesting to test because if feels like it's a lot less finicky than a V60 and following April's recipe has given me, generally, very good and much more consistent results, and, probably more importantly, also something to benchmark against – Drawdown times always were very inconsistent for me in the V60 and with the April brewer I finally get consistent enough results so that playing with the grind settings actually starts to make sense.

Fun and Danger

Of course it is great fun to explore new gear, so much is true for technology as well as coffee equipment, but there obviously is a problem: You can only drink so much coffee in one day. Let's just say that I have probably exceeded my recommended dose for a couple of days in a row now. And my sleeping patterns are already slightly affected, so yeah, that needs to change.

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